22 Designs Outlaw X Operating Guide
- Place ski pole in front of aluminum Latch at front of binding assembly, and lever backward until the binding is released and pivots freely
- Place boot toe fully into the binding toe frame, engage heel Claw with boot heel by stepping down until Claw engages with a snap
- Utilize heel climbing bails for additional climbing aid heights
- Place ski pole tip in aluminum Latch hole, and lever forward until you see the small circle
- Place boot toe fully into the binding toe fram, engage heel Claw with boot heel by stepping down until Claw engages with a snap
- Check connection by fully flexing boot, and observing that the Claw fully rotates
- Preload setting - to vary the initial force when heel is lifted and overall stiffness, select preload settings 1-5, with 1 being the softest, most neutral initial flex and 5 providing the stiffest, most active flex. Hold heel Claw in closed position, and rotate Spring Cap to align chosen prelead setting with the end of the Claw's ear
- Be sure all snow is removed from the boot and binding before stepping in
- Some people have had issues with the Claw not fully engaging the boot heel and/or pre-releasing from the boot heel. If so, check that all binding screws are tight - mainly the 2 Claw clip screws. Also check that the metal Claw clip is flush against the orange plastic claw, and is not bent
- Putting your skis up on a table, and click the boot into the problem binding with no foot in it. Observe the "claw" and see if engages and rotates all the way up. Compare to the other binding with no problems, see if one rotates up higher than the other?
- As the boot steps in, watch the duck butt and the true heel: check whether the heel of your boot hits the heel plate with climbing bail housed in it before the duck butt can fully engage the claw. If the heel is hitting first, this will prevent the duck butt from fully engaging into the claw. The solution is to build up some tape (we can send you our thick plastic "ice tape") on top of the skis topsheet right under the orange plastic slide block. This way the claw will engage before the heel hits the heel plate.
- While you are doing this, look for this spacer: a metal cylinder on the metal bar that is underneath the claw, and in front of the slide block. There should be a gap between this metal cylinder and the orange plastic slide block. (Image attached for what you are looking for with this, and this image can be found in the Outlaw X Instructions on our website too) This can be fixed, or readjusted using the method in the video attached here. As an NTN boot is used more, wear occurs on the toe and duck butt, and sometimes the boot can begin to seat itself further into the toe piece of the binding, and these spacers can be adjusted to account for this change in the boot.
- Lastly, if the flex plate has broken where the slic pin slide through, you will want a replacement part.