How to Choose Climbing Skins for Ski Touring

Ski Touring 101 / Gear guide

CRIPPLE CREEK BIKE AND BACKCOUNTRY

The right skins make the climb.

Grip, glide, sizing and care—without the guesswork.

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By the Cripple Creek Bike and Backcountry ski touring team  •  Updated November 2026

Your Skins Do the Heavy Lifting

On many tours, climbing takes up most of the day, and for every step of that climb, your skins are what keep you moving. A good skin grips a steep skin track without slipping back, then glides forward with as little effort as possible. A bad one balls up with snow, peels off on a cold summit, or makes every stride feel like you’re dragging a doormat.

Skins are one of the least glamorous pieces of a touring setup, but few pieces matter more to how your day goes. Below we explain how we help skiers choose the right material, size the skin to their ski, and take care of it so it lasts for seasons.

A Few Things to Know First

Skins are a trade-off between grip and glide. Every skin material sits somewhere on a spectrum between holding you on steep terrain and sliding easily on flat or rolling terrain. No single skin is best at both, so the right choice depends on where and how you tour.

Glue is half the skin. The plush side gets all the attention, but the adhesive is what keeps the skin on your ski all day. Good glue sticks reliably in the cold, peels apart without a wrestling match, and leaves no residue on your bases.

Skins are a consumable. Plush wears down and glue loses its tack. With good care a pair will last several seasons, but eventually every skin needs replacing. If yours are slipping on moderate grades or won’t stay stuck, it’s time.

Every skin needs to be fitted to your ski. Most skins are sold long and wide and trimmed to your specific ski. Fitting a skin properly is quick, but it matters, and we’re happy to do it for you.

Steps to Choosing and Sizing a Climbing Skin

1. Choose Your Material

Nylon: Nylon skins are durable, affordable, and grip extremely well. The trade-off is more friction, which means less glide and more effort over a long day. They’re also heavier. We usually recommend nylon only for splitboarders who want maximum grip on steep tracks, or for budget setups like kids’ skis.

Mohair/nylon blend: This is what we recommend for most skiers. A blend, typically around 70% mohair and 30% nylon, glides noticeably better than nylon while holding up well to abrasion, firm spring snow, and years of use. It’s the do-it-all choice for everything from mellow tree laps to big objectives. Our staff favorite is Pomoca.

100% mohair: Pure mohair skins are the lightest, most packable, and glide the best. That’s why they’re the go-to for rando racing and fast, light setups. The downside is durability: mohair can wear more quickly and may need extra care in wet or abrasive conditions.

2. Choose Your Width

Your skin should cover the full base of your ski, leaving about 2mm of steel edge exposed on each side. That exposed edge gives you bite on sidehills and firm snow while the skin does the climbing.

Skins usually come in a few widths, such as 100mm, 120mm, and 140mm. Choose the width that’s at least as wide as your ski’s widest point, usually the shovel near the tip. The skin is then trimmed down to follow your ski’s shape. If you’re between widths, size up. Extra material can always be cut away, but a skin that’s too narrow will never cover your base.

Some long-distance tourers and racers use a slightly narrower “skinny” skin, which saves weight and improves glide at the cost of some grip. It’s a great option for long approaches on mellow terrain, but for most skiers we recommend full coverage.

3. Choose Your Length and Attachments

Most skins are sold in lengths that fit a range of ski sizes and are trimmed or adjusted to fit. The tip loop should hook securely over the tip of your ski, and the tail clip should pull the skin snug without stretching it.

Look at the attachments, too. A secure tip connection, usually a metal or rubber loop, is essential. Tail clips add security in deep snow and on long tours, helping keep snow from sneaking under the tail and peeling the skin off. Racers often skip the tail clip to save weight and speed up transitions, but for most skiers we recommend using one.

4. Cut and Fit Your Skins

Once you’ve got the right skin, it’s time to cut it to your ski. Stick the skin to the base with the tip attachment in place, then trim along each edge so about 2mm of steel is exposed. A sharp razor blade will work, but an offset skin-cutting tool makes it much easier to get a clean, even line. Finish by rounding off any sharp corners at the tip and tail so they don’t catch and start peeling.

Not comfortable cutting your own? Bring your skis and skins into the shop and we’ll trim them for you.

5. Take Care of Your Skins

Keep them warm. Cold glue doesn’t stick. On cold days, keep your skins inside your jacket between laps instead of in your pack.

Put them on at the trailhead, not at home. Skins stick best to cold, dry bases. Putting them on warm skis inside and then heading into the cold can cause condensation and poor adhesion.

Store them glue-to-glue for the day. Fold your skins glue to glue during transitions. Use skin savers for long-term storage, but they’re a hassle mid-tour.

Dry them gently. After a tour, hang your skins to air-dry out of direct sunlight. Never dry them near a radiator, woodstove, or other direct heat. Heat is the enemy of skin glue.

Keep the glue clean. Dirt, pine needles, and dog hair all reduce adhesion. When the glue eventually wears out, many skins can be re-glued, or it may be time for a new pair.

6. Ready for your next tour?

Ready to get set up? Stop by the shop and let our staff help you pick the right skin and fit it to your skis.

SHOP CLIMBING SKINS

Part of our Beginner's Ski Touring Guide. Guides are general education; product fit, compatibility, conditions and current manufacturer instructions should always be checked for your specific setup.